29 — what-do-you-do-who-are-you
Let's talk about the Milan Design Week 2024, unspoken hierarchies, design royalties and the power of PR in making or breaking a project
When I started writing these essays on Substack I made a promise to myself that I would use this platform to share some authentic thoughts and find my way of connecting to like-minded people and creatives whose paths I am inspired by. I would use it to write from my point of view and ask the questions I’d want to read the answers to. I also promised myself that I would not use this platform to vent but remain somewhat positive (or dare I say - neutral, especially to work-related matters) but after having been in Italy, for the Milan Design Week, I am seriously questioning all of the promises I made - who am I kidding? Me? Remaining neutral? What was I thinking.
It’s been an emotionally tiring week made of endless “what-do-you-do-who-are-you”. One of unspoken hierarchies and design royalties. Of power dynamics and superficial interactions. Of ‘small fishes in a big pond’. But it’s also been an emotionally fulfilling week charged with inspiring projects, creative conversations, and soulful connections so you see how torn I am when I try to gather my thoughts around the meaning of it all. It’s the duality of it that keeps me invested.
For the first time in over a decade, this year I observed it with somewhat fresh eyes, if that’s even possible. Instead of being knee-deep in producing work, exhibitions, and product launches, I witnessed the event from the perspective of an editor taking in the work of others. Despite feeling nothing but gratitude for having this opportunity and enjoying the freedom of going around between all the installations at my own pace, I also found myself observing way more than I could have ever done in the past.
Like all under pressure circumstances, it’s inevitable to expose one’s frailties and the design industry did just that. Let me say this kindly - it’s not an inclusive industry.
The whole week was a series of ‘Pretty Woman’ scenarios where most people were treated dismissively until someone was able to assess whether you could be useful or not. And, of course, the nicer they got the more useful you were depending on where you stood on the scale of industry usefulness. I was told that some designers “were not releasing interviews unless for the Wall Street Journal”, in that case, I should have booked my slot last month but “if I really wanted to feature the project I could perhaps get a quote sent via email as soon as they could”. I wouldn’t want to have been working in public relations last week - kudos to the ones who did. If you work in the field, and you are reading this, I hope you’re ok.
This year I realized how much PR (public relations) has the power to make or break an experience - hence a project. The few who managed to leave a positive impact were kind and polite, knowledgeable of the projects they were assigned to, but also aware of the teeny-tiny nature of this industry where people move around a lot hence, you never know who you are being nice (or mean) to. Today you could have been nice to a sales agent who you didn’t know existed, next year that same person could take on a position as a CFO acquiring the power of hiring yourself or the agency you work for. I’m just making a point here because, you see, through social media, like all things, everything looks fantastic and people are so friendly with each other taking selfies that hint at collaborations between peers no matter if they are competing designers or rival journalists. Reality, like all things, has complex facets and often looks very different from that famous ‘highlight reel’ we portray in our feeds.
By no means I am writing this to scare you off but to give you a side that is not often talked about - let’s call it behind the scenes just like I did during the week when I posted a story of the queues outside one of the venues. So many of you responded to that short clip with shock but also gratitude for showing that side, not photogenic but, nonetheless, real.
During this time I’ve learned many things, especially about myself, and with a bit of hindsight, I am choosing to focus on the positives. Regardless, let me share some of the lessons I’ve learned with you because I don’t believe in gatekeeping.
For the people:
An exclusive project doesn’t mean it’s a good one aka don’t let the FOMO misguide you
Don’t believe in most of the media hype around a few projects before the MDW starts, often these are ‘owed favors’ or paid posts
Surround yourself with good people, that will inevitably lead to connection
Take a breath, stop for an ice cream or even lunch, nobody is saving lives here
Follow your instinct, not someone else’s map of ‘must-sees’
Everybody wants your email address to eventually sell you something later on
Stay away from designers who walk around with an entourage
People will remember your kindness and even more if you behave like an ass****
If you are anyone else who is not a renowned designer, wanted journalist, or ‘famous’ Milanese personality, don’t get discouraged by the environment - it’s not you, it’s the industry that is not welcoming
Don’t compare yourself to other people, especially during the Milan Design Week
On this note: stay away from social media, especially during the Milan Design WeekCultivate meaningful relationships outside of the context of this week
The industry is small, and people talk so be nice
For the brands:
During the MDW focus on experiences because products can be delivered to people’s inboxes anytime
Sharing your very private dinners doesn’t foster community
PR can make or break the experience of a project
On this note: if you hire junior staff or interns, please make sure they get proper training beforehand (you wouldn’t believe the things I’ve heard)An exclusive project doesn’t mean it’s a good one
If you think your branding looks like someone else’s - it’s because IT DOES
On this note: if you can’t tell brands apart, do the work in finding something that is unique to you and nobody elseNobody wants to queue to walk into your booth (ehm, Salone del Mobile)
There are young and talented Milan-based photographers who can bring soul into your project - not take away from it. Believe in them, and give them work
If you work with designers who are too good to release interviews outside of the WSJ, make sure that your staff is well-informed, enough to answer questions on the spot
Good graphic design has to be functional, not just pretty to look at
On this note: If you can’t read any useful information, well, just don’t make a flyerThe industry is small, and people talk so be nice
For the designers:
If your project resembles someone else’s from a few years back - it’s because IT DOES
You need to do the research and come up with unique names that are searchable
Good grief, stop calling your chairs ‘Chair’Do your thing, not what the sales department wants you to do
On this note: to quote a loved-or-hated man (Steve Jobs) “Some people say to give the customers what they want, but that's not my approach. Our job at Apple is to figure out what they're going to want before they do.”You all want to get noticed, understandable. The easiest way is not to adulate the key opinion leaders in the industry (although unfortunately that still works at times) but to produce memorable work - believe me, the media will notice
The industry is small, and people talk so be nice
You are reading this on Wednesday because, well, last week was intense.
Regular programming will resume on Sunday with an essay for paid subscribers.
Thank you for sticking around.
x Ilenia
Love this honest sun-up of your experience. We need more of this because everything seems so glossy and well curated from the outside. I’ve never been to Salone, but every year, my Instagram turns into a Milan ad for a whole week. While I’m tempted to go every year, I’m put off by the exclusiveness and the massive egos I would have to deal with. Maybe there’s a way around, but it’s really easy to feel like you’re a “nobody” in this scene. I could go on but I won’t bore you, hehe! Authentic voices like yours are very needed, so thank you! <3